Whichever one you decide to use. It's cheap insurance against catastrophe.

i think you can move it above the screws but not much further or it might not be doing its job



i would say if you put that 45 degree angle no and face it up you'll be good to go.

but the factory box is also a box and not a plate.

Quit thinking and just put your catch can above the port in the block and the oil will drain back to the crankcase and not even end up in the can.

thats what the bracket looks like inside the fender.. gotta give it up for deleted emissions equipment. 

waiting on fittings and line to finish the breather.

reinstalled the line for the mechanical oil pressure gauge last night.. again, let me remind everyone: it is NOT worth having a mechanical gauge.. it might be more foolproof and accurate, but its a pain in the ass.. the plastic lines are worthless (first one was defective out of the box), and the upgraded copper line looks ugly and breaks if it gets bent too many times (swapping out engines and transmissions).. just spend the extra $25 and get the electrical one.

also took the dash apart to figure out why the rest of the gauges arent working.. I forgot I cut out some burned power wires and never redid them.. at least it was a simple issue.

got bored, tore stuff apart.

removed the intake, valve cover, breather, coolant flange, alternator and bracket, and the pullies.



also finished painting the lettering on this manifold that I scored from good sir nick of maryland:



I determined a couple of things:

1. the one piece scirocco upper rad hose is not going to work, so I'm ordering the new 3 piece version tomorrow.

2. the ABA alternator bracket is only going to mount on three points instead of four, one of the bolt locations is not the same on the 9A block. Its missing this:



3. the clearance between the frame and the serp belt tensioner pulley is tight, and may require hammer tuning:




4. the tolerance between the front coolant flange on the head and the back of the tensioner bracket is tight- a downturned or ABF style coolant flange is necessary if you have the aluminum tensioner that looks like this (the "updated" style plastic tensioner works without changing out the flange):



I need to go digging in the hardware stash to find all the mounting bolts for the serpentine belt setup, as well as find my water pump pulley, but it shouldnt take much more figuring out once I get those pieces in.

still waiting on stuff from summit and BBM, and racerpartswholesale informed me that most of the shit I need from them is on backorder.. yay.

I'm going to miss my RPI non-A/C bracket.. it was the first mod I did back in 2000 or so.

looks like you got some work done after i left