vortex has its share of "official" 16v aba serp belt conversion threads, but they're full of fuckheads like austin neushaffuckhead and whatnot, or people who don't know their ass from an oil filter.

I have almost everything I need to do this now, so I'm going to post up pics while I do it.. but I might need some advice from the people that have done this already along the way- I'm doing it on a 9A block in the car, and since I have a second serp belt setup I'm also putting it on the engine I'm building on the stand so I know what I need with the 16vABA with the BBM charger as well.

also doing a breather/catch can in the fender at the same time, and if I feel frisky I might put my power steering shit back on as well.. right now I'm running one v-belt for the water pump/alternator only.


parts I have, pics will come later:

1. machined down ABA crank pulley from Josh at NLS

2. VR6 water pump pulley (smooth sided serp belt pulley)

3. water pump from an ABA, also one from a 9A

4. alternator bracket from an obd1 ABA

5. metal front coolant flange, to be modified to point downwards

6. aluminum blockoff plate for both the 9a and the ABA, to be tapped to NPT threads for -10 AN fittings

7. Jaz catch can with single port and breather filter


using the parts washer at work to clean some stuff up tonight, will get started on the pics soon. 

I did it without machining the crank pulley on the black Rabbit by using a 4rib belt and not caring if it lined up. Seems to work OK now that the waterpump bearing ate itself and the new one is on.

If the pulley is machined enough to be rid of the centering ring, you need a new one made and installed.

"1. machined down ABA crank pulley from Josh at NLS"

this mean remove the ribs on it? or is it actuly smaller now?

fuck BBM and their high prices on shit like this.. they want $149 for this "on sale" and call it billet.



there are a few different ways around that pulley- one is a 1.8t pulley shimmed out, or the backcut ABA pulley.. duff did the shimmed 1.8t back in like 2002. There is also a third way I don't have all the info on that involves not cutting anything, but austin n was talking about it, and I consider him to be less than good at working on cars.. plus, I know this way will work with the charger, so I'm sticking with it.

the coolant flange contacts the back of the serp belt tensioner if you dont have one that points another way- the plastic ABF ones that you can buy for like $40 will also correct this, or if you have the thinner, late model tensioner it wont hit either.. I need a modified flange to work with the charger no matter what.. I mailed mine to melvin to "fix it" last night.. I'm hoping to have all the other stuff mocked up by the time it gets back.

paul- how can I tell if this thing is cut down far enough to remove the centering ring? I dont have an uncut one to compare it to..

Austin N is just quoting me because I said that's the way I did it when I chose not to care. Shit works but I don't recommend it for a car with an SC or one that goes over 7500.

Nice manifold. That crank pulley will work fine, it still has the centering ring in it.

when you go to get that block off plate tapped let me know. i have one also i wanna get done.

have you thought about what size to tap it with yet?

okay, maybe 3/4" NPT is better.

heres a question.. BBM makes their breather plates with the fitting all the way at the bottom, below the metal wall of the engine block.



wouldn't it be better to have the outlet up top so it isnt getting oil splashed out off the crank? I'd be able to run it off directly above the oil filter flange that way, rather than having to put it up and over or forward towards the rad to clear the oil filter.. that seems a little more like the factory configuration.

anyone know what size freeze plug goes in the hole from the old breather assembly?