I know this is an old post, but try this anyway if you haven't already.

Disconnect both your battery leads and connect a multimeter across the leads to check for resistance. With the key in the off position and the accessory fuse pulled out, you should have a wide open circuit. It should read OL or infinite depending on your meter. If not, there's a short. Check all your switches (turn the interior light switch to the off position) and make sure nothing is on, like maybe your rear window defogger. They shouldn't matter in the off position but if they do, we'll get to that.

If it was wide open, turn the key to the ON position and see what happens to the resistance across the terminals. You should be catching a reading through the ignition switch, a large amount of resistance in the instruments, etc. Should read in the thousands if you have everything shut off. If not...

Start pulling fuses, one by one, and check with each one to see which fuse makes your resistance go back up to where it belongs. Once you find the one that makes a difference, you've found the circuit that has the excessive current draw.

The A1's had almost all the current in the car pass into and out of the passenger compartment. More than that, almost all the power in the car passes through that ignition switch in the early models, so if more than a couple things are drawing a little too much current each, they add up and more current will flow through those wires.

Upgrading your headlights, for example, even to what should be an OEM equivelant, can cause a similar symptom. Course, with that example it would only happen when the headlights are on.

Message me if you're still having problems.

Right on. Figured it was something that was upgraded.

That's fucking brilliant!