Dubsquad.org

vortex has its share of "official" 16v aba serp belt conversion threads, but they're full of fuckheads like austin neushaffuckhead and whatnot, or people who don't know their ass from an oil filter.

I have almost everything I need to do this now, so I'm going to post up pics while I do it.. but I might need some advice from the people that have done this already along the way- I'm doing it on a 9A block in the car, and since I have a second serp belt setup I'm also putting it on the engine I'm building on the stand so I know what I need with the 16vABA with the BBM charger as well.

also doing a breather/catch can in the fender at the same time, and if I feel frisky I might put my power steering shit back on as well.. right now I'm running one v-belt for the water pump/alternator only.


parts I have, pics will come later:

1. machined down ABA crank pulley from Josh at NLS

2. VR6 water pump pulley (smooth sided serp belt pulley)

3. water pump from an ABA, also one from a 9A

4. alternator bracket from an obd1 ABA

5. metal front coolant flange, to be modified to point downwards

6. aluminum blockoff plate for both the 9a and the ABA, to be tapped to NPT threads for -10 AN fittings

7. Jaz catch can with single port and breather filter


using the parts washer at work to clean some stuff up tonight, will get started on the pics soon.  :wave:

i want to do this as well.

I did it without machining the crank pulley on the black Rabbit by using a 4rib belt and not caring if it lined up. Seems to work OK now that the waterpump bearing ate itself and the new one is on.

If the pulley is machined enough to be rid of the centering ring, you need a new one made and installed.

I assume items 5-7 are for charger/oil cooler reasons yes?

The main thing keeping me from doing this (besides laziness, duh) is the 200$ "proper" crank pulley from BBM.  You seem to have found a way around that.

Consider my interest piqued!

"1. machined down ABA crank pulley from Josh at NLS"

this mean remove the ribs on it? or is it actuly smaller now?

You cut the inside edge down 5.9mm so that it sits closer in. The 16v timing cog is wider and kicks the pulley out too far.

fuck BBM and their high prices on shit like this.. they want $149 for this "on sale" and call it billet.

(http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/product_images/phpmewGDW.full.jpg)

there are a few different ways around that pulley- one is a 1.8t pulley shimmed out, or the backcut ABA pulley.. duff did the shimmed 1.8t back in like 2002. There is also a third way I don't have all the info on that involves not cutting anything, but austin n was talking about it, and I consider him to be less than good at working on cars.. plus, I know this way will work with the charger, so I'm sticking with it.

the coolant flange contacts the back of the serp belt tensioner if you dont have one that points another way- the plastic ABF ones that you can buy for like $40 will also correct this, or if you have the thinner, late model tensioner it wont hit either.. I need a modified flange to work with the charger no matter what.. I mailed mine to melvin to "fix it" last night.. I'm hoping to have all the other stuff mocked up by the time it gets back.

paul- how can I tell if this thing is cut down far enough to remove the centering ring? I dont have an uncut one to compare it to..

Whatever you do, make damn sure you dowel pin the crank before doing any of this.

I've seen too many pics of crank pulleys sheering the keyways and annhilating everything internally on 16v serp setups and you're coupling that with a supercharger belt. I know the G60 and TDI guys have been having chest pins about this happening.

-Randy

Austin N is just quoting me because I said that's the way I did it when I chose not to care. Shit works but I don't recommend it for a car with an SC or one that goes over 7500.

should be okay for that up until the fire-engine-box goes on though, right?

pics I promised:

crank pulley machined down:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0789.jpg)
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0791.jpg)

breather blockoff plate, will be drilled and tapped:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0802.jpg)

jaz catch can breather, fits inside drivers side inner fender up front, where the evap can used to live:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0785.jpg)

coolant flange in the mail to melvin:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0781.jpg)

what it will most likely look like:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/frontcoolant2.jpg)

what happens when I have a sawzall with search and destroy blade, and free time at the garage:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0792.jpg)

Nice manifold. That crank pulley will work fine, it still has the centering ring in it.

so, dowel the ABA crank, leave the 9A one alone?

when you go to get that block off plate tapped let me know. i have one also i wanna get done.

have you thought about what size to tap it with yet?

1/2" NPT, I think.. I'm just going to buy a tap and bit, since I have to do it twice.. its not like aluminum is tough to work with.

(http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/500/555/555-100130_3.jpg)

then one of those adapters to a -10 AN socketless fitting

(http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/images/large/AER-FCM1514.jpg)

one of these guys, then another on the can end, with black -10 socketless hose between them.

okay, maybe 3/4" NPT is better.

heres a question.. BBM makes their breather plates with the fitting all the way at the bottom, below the metal wall of the engine block.

(http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/product_images/phpJWC4Z9.full.jpg)

wouldn't it be better to have the outlet up top so it isnt getting oil splashed out off the crank? I'd be able to run it off directly above the oil filter flange that way, rather than having to put it up and over or forward towards the rad to clear the oil filter.. that seems a little more like the factory configuration.

anyone know what size freeze plug goes in the hole from the old breather assembly?

i tried fitting the freeze plug from the back of the 16v in that hole and it was slightly too big. maybe if i had hammer tuned it it would have worked.

Whichever one you decide to use. It's cheap insurance against catastrophe.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/enginefront1.jpg)

thats what the BBM plate looks like, with the port down at the bottom.. anyone know if thats where the port should be? I'm still thinking I should drill it up towards the top to keep from getting mostly liquid out of the motherfucker.

i think you can move it above the screws but not much further or it might not be doing its job

(http://shislerocco.com/swap/block2.jpg)

i would say if you put that 45 degree angle no and face it up you'll be good to go.

yeah, but if its intended purpose is to allow crankcase ventilation, having it up more towards the middle would still allow that, with less liquid.

I guess I could do a 90 degree bend up, then a 90 degree fitting to the drivers side to get it up about an inch to clear the oil filter flange.. but the factory box has the hole up behind that wall of metal, I presumed for a reason.

but the factory box is also a box and not a plate. :wave:

its a box with a deflector in the back of it as well that sits at about the same level as the block.. oil is not able to deflect directly out the hole the way it would with their design, and the passage it has with that deflector would be about the same as between that metal wall and the plate.. I'll take a pic in a little bit.

Quit thinking and just put your catch can above the port in the block and the oil will drain back to the crankcase and not even end up in the can.

yessir.  :wave:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0853.jpg)

thats what the bracket looks like inside the fender.. gotta give it up for deleted emissions equipment.  :thumbsup:

waiting on fittings and line to finish the breather.

reinstalled the line for the mechanical oil pressure gauge last night.. again, let me remind everyone: it is NOT worth having a mechanical gauge.. it might be more foolproof and accurate, but its a pain in the ass.. the plastic lines are worthless (first one was defective out of the box), and the upgraded copper line looks ugly and breaks if it gets bent too many times (swapping out engines and transmissions).. just spend the extra $25 and get the electrical one.

also took the dash apart to figure out why the rest of the gauges arent working.. I forgot I cut out some burned power wires and never redid them.. at least it was a simple issue.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0863.jpg)

decided to redo the fuel plumbing while I have all this shit apart, and expanded it to cleaning up some of the super messy engine bay as well.

so while I'm making the automotive equivalent of a mountain out of a molehill, I'm removing as much of the "boy racer" blue and red from the engine compartment as I can, cutting out non functional factory shit, and replacing it with more subtle/cleaner stuff.. this isn't just cosmetic shit though, I'm replacing it with better and newer stuff that also happens to be less ugly.

on the chopping block:

red silicone vacuum lines
red valve cover
blue aeroquip socketless fuel hose (oil cooler hose next time around as well)
oxidized upper and lower intake manifold and fuel pressure regulator
vr6 football sized fuel filter
90 degree fuel fitting on passenger side of fuel rail
k&n breather filter and factory breather
ugly (but functional) upper toothed alternator bracket, RPI a/c elimination kit (vintage!) and v-belt pullies

all the shit I need is in my hands, in the mail, or with melvin being "sport-tuned".. next week is going to be busy.

got bored, tore stuff apart.

removed the intake, valve cover, breather, coolant flange, alternator and bracket, and the pullies.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0929.jpg)

also finished painting the lettering on this manifold that I scored from good sir nick of maryland:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0950.jpg)

I determined a couple of things:

1. the one piece scirocco upper rad hose is not going to work, so I'm ordering the new 3 piece version tomorrow.

2. the ABA alternator bracket is only going to mount on three points instead of four, one of the bolt locations is not the same on the 9A block. Its missing this:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0952.jpg)

3. the clearance between the frame and the serp belt tensioner pulley is tight, and may require hammer tuning:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0947.jpg)
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0948.jpg)

4. the tolerance between the front coolant flange on the head and the back of the tensioner bracket is tight- a downturned or ABF style coolant flange is necessary if you have the aluminum tensioner that looks like this (the "updated" style plastic tensioner works without changing out the flange):

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0955.jpg)

I need to go digging in the hardware stash to find all the mounting bolts for the serpentine belt setup, as well as find my water pump pulley, but it shouldnt take much more figuring out once I get those pieces in.

still waiting on stuff from summit and BBM, and racerpartswholesale informed me that most of the shit I need from them is on backorder.. yay.

I'm going to miss my RPI non-A/C bracket.. it was the first mod I did back in 2000 or so.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0932.jpg)

I've got a hodgepodge of AN fittings from past projects; anything in there you can use?

(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii181/Staggerlee101/fittings.jpg)

looks like you got some work done after i left

I think I have the fittings under control, but the hose is apparently on backorder. I ordered it midnight on monday and they waited until 10 minutes before they closed yesterday to send me an email saying they weren't shipping it out. What size hose is that?

anyplace else you know of that sells aeroquip socketless hose by the foot? jegs and summit want to sell it in 20ft packs, and thats the only thing I need from RPW right now.


yeah, I got a lot of work done.. the thing is, just like corrados, sciroccos come apart easier than they go back together.  :wave:

Check Speedway.

The lower alt bolt is a son of a whore, call me when you want to put the alt in there's a special procedure you need to follow.

dont jinx yourself. this is gonna be ready for waterfest.


i think i did say you would need to do some hammer tuning for the one pulley.

There's a joint local to me that keeps the socketless hose in stock.  How much of it do you need; I can run by there this afternoon and grab some if you'd like.  I don't know how they compare price-wise to the online sources,  but it could be on it's way to you today.

RPW just got back to me, apparently its coming in today or tomorrow- as long as I get it by next week it wont set me back much, I still have a few things to sort out before then.. I'll keep that in mind though.. its the aeroquip brand shit?

thanks though.  :wave:


oh, I know..


10-4. Install the bracket first though?

Yes bracket first, you need to 'mod' the alternator to get the bolt in. It sucks. Looks like you have even less clearance then the Rabbit too. Rad.

Yep, all Aeroquip.  They keep more in shit in stock than I'd know what to do with, plus they're cool guys to deal with.

http://www.oilfilterserviceco.com/

thats awesome.. the one place we have around here is pretty decent, and the guy doesn't look at me too crazy for not having something amurrican.. just gives me shit for wanting "crazy metric stuff" all the time... but he stocks very little plumbing shit for some reason.

3 piece scirocco upper hose ordered- shisler, you're off the hook for that one  :thumbsup:

summit shit showed up today, so thats one good piece of good news..

I just cut up an ABA hose and used a coupler but you're using the Rocco rad I guess.

Yay Summit. Got my Jegs catch can but the -6 inlet is too small. BAH.

RPW shit shipped today.. I take back half the bad things I said about them.

They say I'll have everything by monday.. so we'll see.

got the bbm shit and the summit shit..

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0961.jpg)

throttle body to boost hose adapter, new style FPR adapter, distributor blockoff, fuel filter, fittings for fuel line, fittings and adapter for breather, freeze plug for ABA breather..

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0960.jpg)

AN wrenches in -6, -8 and -10.

RPW shit on monday, getting the shit from melvin this weekend.. should have all the shit ready to go in early next week.  :wave:

going to be nice, cannot wait to see it

melvin does some amazing work.. here is the completed downturned coolant flange, I'll let him tell you how he made it.. all thats original is the three bolt flange:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0963.jpg)'

drilled and tapped breather plate, fitting installed (wishing I went with a 90 degree):

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0964.jpg)

blockoff for cold start injector, and the flange I sent him as a pattern, temporary until the charger goes on:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0972.jpg)

also, summit sent me the wrong brass fittings, they must have been mislabeled at the factory- even though they came from two different facilities, I got -8 instead of -6 1/4" npt adapters.. that's a monday problem.

anyone have an extra freeze plug to go in the breather hole on a 16v? it isnt the same size as the ABA, I didn't realize that until I took it off.

i started by cutting off the old stock aluminum hose adapters then took some aluminum pipe and put them in the lathe and milled down the ends so that the pipe will be retained when clamped down, then coped one end of the bigger horizontal pipe to fit the smaller vertical pipe.  drilled a hole in the smaller pipe and welded the two together, welded up the 45 degree at the top then welede the small 45 side to the flange which if you have ever tried to weld cast aluminum is a motherfucker,  it pops all kinds of damn holes in it and you have to chase them out.  sometimes cast will not weld but luckely the stock VW piece wasent too bad and i was able to get it done.  after all the welding was done i took a scotchbrite wheel to it and sorta sanded down all the welds and smoothed it out as best i could without takeing several days..   :thumbsup:

i concur. just another example not to thread jack. but the original fabenstein product.
(http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k297/mdnick/IMG_0796.jpg)

:dance:

That flange looks rad. When I did Katie's motor I just used something I had sitting around which means you can get it at Napa.

whoooohooo glad i can see this thread finally..

oh..and im part for part...the same build as scott..on the serp/catch can..dealy..

 :thumbsup:

you guys are my guinea pigs so i can see what i DONT want to do :number1:

I posted a whole thread about that.

1.9tdi crank pulley 60 bucks brand new from olympic or worldpac...

works just fine with the 16v..its compairable to the abf one..

lets see some pics of it then.. and your non-ac city golf bracket.

i think i "finished" the engine in that car in less than a year :wave:

ooh, sick burn.

 :tard:

sounds good ill take some pics of them tonight..

the pulley is sitting at the parts store..but heres a quick refrence


TDI
(http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/A2080136164.JPG)

ABA
(http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/A2080136162OES.JPG)

The TDI one looks a lot like the 1.8t one that doesn't work.

there different only my MM's...

wizardofOD and another guy on vortex sells..theses tdi pulleys to work with the serp setup on 16v's..i figure why pay them 90 bucks when i can get it for 60  :thumbsup:

1.8t pulley your talking  about

(http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/A2080136154OES.JPG)

My brother was nice enough to bring me my stuff from RPW, so I'm headed out the garage after work to get started on some shit.

still need to make a bracket for the catch can out of something, and get the upper rad hose situation sorted out as well.  :thumbsup:

Post the alternator bolt ninja shit up so everyone else can do it. It sucks.

it wasnt as bad as I thought it would be.. your directions were perfect-

from now on, this will be known as the "paul method":

take a 19mm socket, or anything bigger than the lower bushing, a long bolt that is smaller than the shaft of the alternator bolt, a washer or something bigger than the bushing so it presses against it, and a smaller nut that threads onto the small bolt.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0976.jpg)

hold the end of the bolt and turn the nut in, and it presses that lower bushing back into the mounting ear of the alternator:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0978.jpg)

one that one was flush with the ear, I ran the top one in slightly to make it easier to line up the alternator on the bracket, then the lower bolt of the alternator snuck right in without hitting the frame rail, making installing the alternator as easy as it could be.. removal is not exactly the reverse of installation, as you'll have to press that bushing back in to get the alternator back out again, so make damn sure you have everything else ready to go before you install it.

alternator installed:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0979.jpg)

new wiring, since the old exciter wire was an eye terminal instead of a plug (I just took a wire from the old '97 GTI wiring harness and pressed it out of its existing plug, then put it into the lower of the two terminals on the back of the alternator plug, the top remains unused):

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0980.jpg)

hammer tuned frame rail to accommodate serp belt tensioner pulley, probably only necessary on an A1 install:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0982.jpg)

only hardware other than the stuff already on the 16v is a double sided stud with a 17mm head that goes in the top left mounting position for the water pump, and the crank pulley bolts from an ABA- the water pump pulley is the VR6 one, and when installing it, you have to put it on backwards from the way you think it should be- its pretty obvious that it will only line up one way.

everything installed, now I need to figure out what size belt to get:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0981.jpg)

remember when I said I wished I'd purchased a 90 degree npt to -10 fitting? now I really wish I had:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0973.jpg)
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0974.jpg)

rough installed repainted valve cover and new intake to check clearances:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0975.jpg)

dug this old thing out of storage and cleaned it up, going to try and figure out what I need to do to un-looptune my power steering system... it did still have fluid in it, so that's a good sign... I need a new cap for it.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0986.jpg)

you'd think with all the fucking fittings I bought that I'd be able to put the new FPR adapter on, the fittings that come with the new one do not work with the original BBM one piece rail. I need to buy more shit to get that to work..

I removed the blue fuel lines, and I did cut the factory double flare end off the fuel line to check the compression fittings paul gave me, and they're going to work just fine. The adapters that summit sent me to convert from 1/4" NPT to -6an are wrong, they're somewhere between -6 and -8. The replacements are apparently in the mail right now.

still on the shopping list:

90 degree -10 fitting for the breather
whatever pipe thread the fuel rail is to -6 o-ring seal fitting
o-ring plug for the passenger side of the rail (the -6 plug I bought is totally the wrong thing)
1.5" or so flat stock to make the bracket for the catch can

oh well, made some progress tonight.. I've been awake about 21 hours now, so I'm going to go die.

anyone have a power steering pressure line for a scirocco, or know if an A2 one will work?

Looks good, when I did the 'paul method' I used a bolt that threaded into the insert and not one that fit through. Probably works the same.

Glad you're making progress!

good shit, seems like a hammer is an essential tool in this build. :thumbsup:

fixed.


aah, I see what you meant.. when you told me to do that I instantly thought of the hub tamer and tried to grab hardware that did the same thing on a much smaller scale.. either way, it worked like a champ.

Yep, someone should have the hardware to do one or the other. If not they should sell their car.

Looking good - bookmarked.

:poke:

you watch your tone, mister.. I'll IP ban the shit out of you.

HA!

 :wave:

Who is this guy?  Can we make fun of him until he cries?

you sure can.. I wouldn't stop you.

oh, serp belt for a non-ac 2.0L ABA? $8 from genes.

I do not give a crap buttercup.

Wow Shisler is a moderator.

pick up a second one would you if they have it...for tibbers dealy next weekend..

ive got the pulley comming this week

and hes also the ultimate sleeper....aka mk1 madness..

do I need anything other than the two outer pullies from the factory setup to run the power steering pump? (besides the v-belt, smartass)

 :thumbsup:

mendra doesnt cry he kills a bitch. haha

ultimate sleeper... i like that. maybe i can join an ultimate sleeper cage match.

There is a separate bracket too. I might have all that shit in a box here if you need something.

I have two brackets, two pumps- one even has a fitting on it.  :thumbsup:

Wow, fancy.

The craziest part of all this isn't you doing it, but writing it all down.

Summit fucked me on my adapter fittings.. apparently anything larger than -4 and smaller than -8 has got to be a -6, right? Wrong.

all 5 of the ones they sent me must have been packaged wrong by aeroquip.. oh well.

here is what the new compression fittings paul hooked me up with on the end of the factory lines look like:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0013.jpg)

so instead of the adapter I was going to use, I'll do this:

(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/small/ear-991002erl_w_s.jpg)(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/small/sum-220752_w_s.jpg)

hopefully they'll just send me that shit instead.. it wont swivel, but the other end at the FPR will.

I'm also having to order a new fuel rail from BBM to go with the new FPR adapter I already bought.. its actually easier than trying to find the fucking adapter to plumb the two together.. balleens.

anyone have a freeze plug for the 16v block breather laying around? we're going to need one for tibber, one for me.

one for me tooo...

we should harass eurotrash to join the boards...hes got alot of insight

you know what else blows? they dont make silicone vac hose in black in small quantities any place that I've checked.. you can sure get it in blue, red or yellow though.

totally going back to rubber.   :braindamage:

I'm going to head to napa at lunch today, just remembered that I have the old 16v breather in the trunk of my car.

(actually, tibbers may use the ABA sized one, he has the plastic breather and better oil filter flange)

ooooh fancy

I got a napa freeze plug yesterday, and it fits perfectly in the hole.. with no resistance.

now I get to take my oil pan down and get it out  :dance:

new fuel rail is on the way, as are the new fittings from summit.

I got bored last night and took the radiator and fan out to see what kind of room I have up there- I should be able to fit the rad, intercooler and oil cooler up in the nose with no problem, may have to go with a lower profile oil cooler core though to maximize flow to the IC and still have room behind it to prevent heatsoak from the radiator.

there are going to be hoses running fucking everywhere.

why dont ya man up ...and go baller..and effeincy will go up as well

(http://s1.promotionsupplies.com/ebay/just-intercoolers/images/intercooler/AWIC01_04-1.jpg)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-To-Water-Liquid-Racing-Intercooler-Turbo-4-5-THICK_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a635Q7c39Q3a1Q7c65Q3a12QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem250253987001QQitemZ250253987001

say whatcha want..i know its ebay intercooler...

but my buddys running one on his daily driven 455whp 1.8t mk4...no flaws yet..in 2 years

yeah, but since I cant see the guts, I cant see the build quality... and there is really only one way those can fuck up, and it ends in engine death.

i might be able to come across a good used one  :poke:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0852.jpg)

this one fits.. that's the next bridge to jump off of anyhow, for now I'm just working on getting the foundation built for all that nasty FI goodness.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0123.jpg)

made some progress last night..

put the valve cover and intake back together, but managed to break a bolt off for the valve cover- tom convinced me to take everything back apart, then we spent a while looking for drill bits.

broken bolt was removed (amazing what you an accomplish with the wrong tools), then I reassembled again with the new fuel rail- both lines will come in on the drivers side of the rail, so no 180 degree fitting on the passenger side like before.

I ran the plug wires under the intake instead of putting them back in the black plastic thing- I'm only running those wires until I put the ABA in anyhow.

I also took the hood off last night, because its been in my way for a while.. only two bolts holding the fucking thing on anyhow- then I noticed exactly how bent my hood hinges are, the hood might actually line up if I replace them with the ones I have sitting in the garage.

I need to get my assembly lube and fittings and stuff from south philly to finish the fuel lines and breather setup- hopefully tibbers can comes in sometime soon so I can steal mine back  :braindamage:

this is a shot of the can inside my fender, I still need to drill out the mounting bolt hole.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0063.jpg)

there is actually more room to run the line than in tibbers car, so I'm thinking of going the same way his went rather than through the fender.. that would keep a little more clutter out of the engine compartment anway.

this is how much room is in the front of a scirocco II to put oil cooler/radiator/intercooler setups:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0127.jpg)

whack.

Busy fucker...I got to get on a place to live by august 1st so my build is comming to a slight standstill

got the fuel system put together last night, even pressure tested it.

first try, no leaks.. I was surprised.

this is the compression fitting, 1/4NPT to 1/4NPT female to female into the -6an barb (on the right side of the pic is the innovate wideband controller):

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0132.jpg)

this is the fuel filter, which sits right above the bellhousing below the side coolant flange on the head:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0131.jpg)

both lines come up from that level into the new FPR adapter:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0130.jpg)

shot of what it looks like from the front, with a lot of the other shit put on as well:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0129.jpg)

also rerouting the oil pressure stuff around the drivers side of the head with 42's oil pressure relocation kit coming out of an adapter on the oil filter flange (the second port on the top of it will be plugged):

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0135.jpg)

the line runs around the side of the head and above the fuel lines, will have the copper tube for the mechanical gauge and the factory pressure switch installed, should clean things up a bit.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0134.jpg)

also took the sandwich plate for the oil cooler out to switch from full flow to thermostatic:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0128.jpg)

but the o-rings on the fittings for the plate were fucked up, so I have to get new ones before I reinstall- figured I would at least clean up the ends of the lines to get rid of the hoseclamps now that I know how to get the lines all the way together, but that lead to removing the oil cooler entirely and cleaning up all the oil it lost when the line blew off back in like 2004.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0141.jpg)

now I have to decide if I want to clean up the oil cooler setup, or get new lines and fittings and relocate it... I'm thinking I would have room up front for a shorter oil cooler down low with the 2" vents below the bumper, the intercooler mounted hanging down from the top, and the factory rad with a low profile puller fan on the back.

I'm leaning pretty heavily towards skipping racing at waterfest in favor of finishing the car the right way. I've half-assed this car back together more than a few times to make a deadline, then lost motivation when it came to taking it back apart.

I still have to get that freeze plug out of the oil pan too  :dance:

stuff I want to do before I put it back on the road:

-finish power steering (need a bunch of fittings and line, cheap, but some research required)
-finish breather system (have all the parts, but spread out all over the place)
-relocate battery to the back with a summit battery box, remove battery tray
-relay headlights (finally)
-clean up remaining vacuum lines and engine compartment wiring
-install hall sender distro and finish wiring spark control
-alignment

paul, should I rewire the fuel injector wiring into two banks?

Yes, it's just one more wire. Pair 1/4 and 2/3 and then half the req_fuel from where it is now (I think).

Oh dibs on the non thermostat sammich adapter.

you want the lines, fittings and cooler too? I think I'm going to get a half height and go black on the lines and fittings..  :dance:

once you go black.....i have nothing to add. looks pretty

Fancy

Yes can I pay you with tuning skill?

naah, I need to get actual money for this stuff since I'm having to replace it.

unless I win the lottery.

PM me your best price I can pay you double with a cashiers check and you can give me back the difference.

I would post pictures of last night's progress- but fishing the freeze plug out of the oil pan, while time consuming, doesn't really count.

I replaced more of the vacuum hoses, started working on the wiring- a lot of the factory wiring was cracked behind the shrouding, so it'll have to get replaced.

I decided that I will relocate the battery to the trunk with one of these before putting it back on the road again:

(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-g1231_w.jpg)

between the thru-panel connector and running the cable under the carpeting, that should keep me busy for a while.

I need another pair of hands to figure out if my current oil cooler will work with the intercooler and radiator I have, then I'll know what else I have to get.

still on the table for the next week or so:

power steering lines
breather final assembly
oil cooler system
battery relocation (including removal of battery tray)
dash reassembly
oil pressure relocation assembly

 :thumbsup:

got some good shit done tonight.. put the oil pressure relocation shit together, including the shiny new 10mm plug I ordered from VW:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0224.jpg)

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0228.jpg)

now the mechanical oil pressure line is connecting to the relocation block, as well as the factory low switch.. that should clean things up on the front of the engine a little more.


also got the freeze plug installed, the ABA freeze plug was too big, so after spending about an hour trying to grind it down, I threw its mangled ass away and mushroomed out the one that used to be in my oil pan (a 22mm socket spreads it apart just enough when pounded into it)... worked like a charm.

I wish I did that in the first place.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0229.jpg)

gotta meet up with tibber to get the rest of the breather stuff (my can and a 90 degree NPT to -10AN fitting) and this chapter will be just about done.

the oil cooler I have will work, I think I will probably mount it upside down on the lower front drivers side of the core support at a 45 degree angle (tilted forward) with a shroud to direct airflow into it, that should keep it out of the way of the intercooler mounting and still give me enough room to hang the IC down from the top. I'm not convinced I'll have room for a pusher fan on the front, but I should be okay with the fans on the back of the rad and clearance between that and the supercharger. I'll know more once I start assembling the ABA block on the stand.

cross your fingers though, because this looks pretty pushed out:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/engineside.jpg)

in looking at what I have together already, its pretty clear that melvin has come up huge so far in this project, and has a couple more things in the works for me... the fact that he works for parts has also helped my broke ass still make progress.

thanks, homie.  :wave:

top heavy SOB. get a reduction

ordered a 5pk1040 belt.

that should be the right size.

I also figured out that if the radiator isnt in the car, you can easily remove or install the entire serp setup without having to do that funny business with the lower bolt... in fact, you dont even have to remove the lower bolt at all, just loosen it so you can get at the top nut holding the bracket to the block.

thats a shit ton of pulleys... :thumbsup:

yeah you could definitely benefit some hp from unsprung weight by deleting a few of those. starting with the one in the upper right hand corner. the one attached to that black box.

Pssh who needs boost anyways

the 5pk1040 belt works.. it looks like a 6pk would also work, but this one will get me by until that useless black box goes on.

still need my breather shit.. soon hopefully.

I've got the wiring upgrades planned out, so that should go together smoothly, and no more stupid jumper wires.  :dance:

Then the dash will go back together, and I may re-looptune the PS for now to get it back on the road to get some tuning done.

Loop tune.

I'm going to measure the lines and get more compression fittings from mcmaster-carr and some new lines from everywhere else for when I put the pump on.

I'll save that problem for another day.  :thumbsup:

Fancypants.

did this thing line up all right? melvin might need one.

going out to do some more work tonight.

eh...not so much...the vortex was wrong once again..

on that note i also need a aba crank pulley machined down

wonder if NLS has anymore?

I talked to josh earlier.. he's out of pulleys.

mel needs one, so do you.

he said $25 each if you get him ones to modify.

july 26th is a saturday..we should do a yardin trip and just grab and shit ton of em

mel still needs a whole serp setup, but that shouldnt be hard to get as well.

you have a spare vr6 water pump pulley?

i can easily grab one..my buddy has 2 blocks sittin is his yard.. :thumbsup:

as for the serp setup that should be hard to get at a yard..

i need to hardware to attach mine..thats goin to suck

he should hit up tibber to buy his..cause hes not gonna use it now

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0264.jpg)

installed breather fitting, routed hose to the fender- still need to put the can in, but that should only take a few minutes at this point.

I love the way the black fittings look.. totally worth the wait.

got the three piece hose from shisler.. put the radiator back in to mock up the hose routing- one piece of the hose has to be replaced to make it to the downward facing coolant flange.

this wont work:

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0262.jpg)

the first hose I happened to grab does though.. lower 16v rad hose.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0263.jpg)
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0261.jpg)

sure saves me the trouble of making something to work.. it wont clear the charger once its in, but for now it'll be fine.

now all I need to do is figure out the oil cooler hoses and this bitch will be ready to drive again.  :thumbsup:

does that mean i am getting the hose back after you put the charger in? :tard:

lookin good man. reaallll good.

yeah, probably.. now that I know that the hose came straight from VW like that, I can order a brand new one.

or, if you prefer, I can get you the one piece style.

picking up a second lower radiator hose from genes in a little bit.

well if you wont be using the 3 piecer ill just take that one back. consider it another long term borrow :poke:

got the new hose already.

$13 solution, yay.    :thumbsup:

have a couple of things to work on pertaining to megasquirt tonight, and will know what to order for the oil cooler hoses tomorrow.

its starting to look like a car again..

 :wave1:

put axles back in... as soon as I get the breather can in, the fender liners are being reinstalled (haven't been on the car since 2000) and the wheels might actually go back on.

rewired megasquirt switched power and fuel pump, now everything works like it should, no stupid jumper wires.

also took the ABA pistons/crank out of the block just for laughs.

still have one more minor wiring project before reinstalling dash components, I might even put the glove box back in.

say its not true.....THE GLOVEBOX!  :wave:

got a little more done on friday, even though it was hot enough that I could barely see from sweat in my eyes.

(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn282/parasight1987/IMG_0276.jpg)

breather is all mounted up, even has an additional hose to keep it from running down the inside of the fender when the drain is open... I'll put the inner fender liners in this week.

all my oil cooler hoses and things are on the way from racer parts wholesale, should be here next week.

that'll give me time to get the dash back together, and wire up the gauges again so they work... then on to retuning and spark control.

nice!  makes me jelous

the car isnt running yet.. besides, your catch can looks waaaaay better.

I have to hide mine.  :dance:

you mean this old thing???

(http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l122/lethalm3/catchcan6.jpg)

found it on the side of the road....